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食旅纪行—南昌篇

  • 2026-07-21 18:28:38
食旅纪行—南昌篇
受大学同学邀请，于南昌驻足半日。
又正好，他是个铁血老南昌。于是就有了如此充实的半日。
初到之时，水汽充沛，阵雨绵绵。我的脸就变成了车玻璃，雾气不断。
好热🥲
走在八一大道，看着气势磅礴的江西省美术馆和南昌起义纪念碑，我对这座英雄城市留下了初步印象：这座城市是大气的。
南昌湖很多，从东西南北湖到象湖青山湖，出了市区东北方向就是我国第二大淡水湖-鄱阳湖。上次去旅游还是泉城济南，想到这两个水多多城市再想到石家庄民心河里面那不足三十公分的水位，便又不自觉的羡慕起来。不过很快就羡慕不起来了。
在湖边逛一圈，我的腿快被蚊子咬成臊子了。
我恨蚊子。
来南昌，先恰噶～
去吃了一顿正经的菜。
江西菜在我足不出户的认知当中，以“鲜辣”为其主要特点。而北方的“鲜”，大多来源于豆制品腌制发酵过后产生的谷氨酸钠，像是豆豉啊腐乳啊云云的再加工产物。
点了四样菜，瓦罐汤、油浸鱼、烟笋炒肉、红烧肉。
谈到这个瓦罐肉饼汤，我爹以前在家给我做过，用陶瓷的锅，说南方人就爱这么吃。看着碗里的粥（我真的看不清里面有什么）和上面悠闲荡涤的血沫子，我问我爹“这真是给人吃的东西吗”，我爹说保真。保不保真我不知道，我只知道我并不想再次回忆当时的味道，反正是强忍着恶心喝下去了。
南昌的肉饼汤，肉饼香甜，汤鲜美，喝起来很润，就跟水一样从喉咙飞快地跑到胃里。都说南方人煲汤牛逼，有鸡有牛的水在火上咕嘟良久，味入其间，却只发现清澈无比。我算是见识到部分皮毛了。
这种香味和北方的香味是截然不同的。北方的香讲求千军万马冲锋，肉的本味和香料调料的味道如同一柄大锤在你的舌头上邦的狠敲一下，瞬间让你丧失理智，只沉浸在满足感当中。而这种香味呢，更像是一位爱而不得的美人。香味入舌，是那种惊艳的味道，不过再想细品时，却无法战胜本能的吞咽冲动，喉咙如同抽水马桶一般把这一口飞快地冲下肚。吧嗒吧嗒嘴，却没了味道。蓦然回首，再来一口。
吃剩余的菜则就如打仗，我有十足理由怀疑这些菜继承了南昌的英雄之魂。初评口感肉香，鱼鲜，辣清爽。烟笋更是在脆嫩的基础上做到了烟熏味十足。但一旦真正进入状态，你会发现这几样菜品之间有战略上的合作。红烧肉下肚，口中充斥着香料的味道，“八角味好浓”，但又不让人感到香过头。正好还能中和掉刚入口时那些过多的甜腻味。糖则是百鲜之王，使得后面的菜吃起来更加鲜美；接着来一口鱼，鱼肉先炸后煮，炸制的过程中提升了鱼皮的口感，锁住了鱼肉的鲜嫩。煮制的工序又把江西辣椒独有的清爽辣味锁在鱼肉里。吃进去咔哧一下咬断脆脆的鱼皮，鱼肉的肉香混着油香，还有辣椒的香味与淡淡的酱油清香，让我忍不住在嘴里静静品味。辣椒显神通，好辣😭。
江西的辣不同于其他地区，你在受到辣味惩罚的时候还能够清楚地尝到食材原本的味道，而江西食材新鲜，此为鲜辣。
吃不下去了，整一口烟笋。烟笋的脆嫩和其蕴含的烟熏味一时盖住了辣味的持久攻势，在辣味的衬托下更加明显。就这样在这几个菜的轮番攻势中，食客逐渐面色红润，鼻尖冒汗。真是一场轰轰烈烈的硬仗。
他说，古称江西是“鱼米之乡”，万物富足。我惊叹于江西食品种类之繁复。背靠自然的底气给予了江西人烹饪的想象力，也同时给予了不被环境所拘泥的口味。我在这里能吃到具有北方特点，重油重糖到齁嗓子的炸制面点，西南地区的麻辣火锅，徽菜风格的红烧菜系，东北的乱炖，面甚至都有着上海本帮面所贯彻的浓油赤酱的颜色和口感。但是这些味道又能作为拥有独立口味的菜在江西本地流行。江西菜最大的特点就是没有特点，纯粹的六边形战士，无解的强大。怪不得不在八大菜系里面。我上次见到拥有这个能力的高手还是《食戟之灵》里面的美作昴，通过学习对手的烹饪习惯和手法做出一模一样的菜，然后融入自己的思考进行改进，从而击败对手。
还记得我另一个大学同学来石家庄的时候，惊叹于本地吃饭价格之便宜。我说，河北现在最不缺的就是粮食，老一辈也经历过吃不饱饭的时候，你在这就算没钱也饿不死。烙俩饼下点面条再就点咸菜也就能凑活着过去了。有钱了就吃顿大肉吃个鱼，能吃饱肉了就算富足。相较而言，江西更像是一个异世界厨房，想吃什么直接给你变出来，什么都有，以最新鲜的姿态冲刺你的舌头，怎么做味道都差不了。我终于理解为什么同学会如此想念江西菜的味道，说北京所有地方做的都不正宗。但凡出了江西省，厨神来了都无法复刻这种味道。
阴雨连绵之际登上了滕王阁，都知道王勃写的《滕王阁序》冠绝天下。明明正是夕阳西下，只可惜天气原因，未能看到落霞孤鹜，也没有看到舸舰弥津。只能看到水天相交，氤氲的乌云遮了太阳，水色也暗淡，可能真的是一个颜色。天高地迥，层峦耸翠。只可惜行程过于紧急，若能多呆个几天，想必能远望更多美景。
本文来自网友投稿或网络内容，如有侵犯您的权益请联系我们删除，联系邮箱：wyl860211@qq.com 。

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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000583s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=aa460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.000728s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.000309s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000274s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000479s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000193s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.000561s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 535903 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000534s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1784895422 WHERE `id` = 535903 [ RunTime:0.000819s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 64 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000217s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 535903 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000388s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 535903 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000368s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 535903 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.000634s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 535903 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.001430s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 535903 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.000857s ]
0.083923s