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南昌,我被皮蛋拿捏了

  • 2026-05-12 04:30:07
南昌,我被皮蛋拿捏了
五一去南昌玩，正逢节假日，八一广场、滕王阁到处是摩肩接踵的游客，深感这个英雄城也成了一个网红城市。
我住在闹市区一家酒店，穿过一条马路，正对面横着一条窄窄的巷子。巷子里，三家小吃店并排挨着，升腾的雾气里全是人间烟火的味道，我在那里解决早饭。
三块钱一碗的南昌拌粉，粉爽滑Q弹，酱油、麻油、剁椒、萝卜干的比例多一分咸，少一分寡。配上一份慢火煨出来的瓦罐汤（皮蛋肉饼或鸡蛋肉饼）。
从前，我没有在别处如此密集地品尝到过皮蛋，南昌的水煮可以加皮蛋，油炸可以点皮蛋，汤里可以加皮蛋。南昌原来这么多皮蛋。皮蛋肉饼汤是我的最爱，皮蛋在慢火煨制中化开了几分，鲜醇的味道混合着肉饼的油脂香，在大早上瞬间唤醒全身。
南昌人对皮蛋有着近乎执着的偏爱。在别处是配角的皮蛋，在这里无处不在。
万物皆可皮蛋的江西地处江南，坐拥中国最大的淡水湖鄱阳湖，水草丰美，气候宜人。得天独厚的环境养肥了成群的蛋鸭。大量的养鸭户在此繁衍，优质的鸭蛋产量，支撑起了南昌人的皮蛋自由。
还有南昌水煮，绝不是简简单单的关东煮或麻辣烫。在一个巨大的锅里，锅里的汤汁永远在沸腾，像是一场永不谢幕的派对，各式各样的食材昼夜不停在内狂欢。在一众食材中，我见到了南昌特有的“脚板”和“藕丸”。脚板是一种豆制品，由多层薄豆皮叠压而成，多层薄豆皮叠压成鞋垫的形状，油炸后变得金黄酥脆。丢进锅里一番翻滚，它像海绵一样吸饱了香辣的汤汁，咬下去既有嚼劲又满口生津。藕丸则绵软中带着清脆。
在一家烧烤店里，我见识到了南昌的炸香蕉。跟别处的大不一样，往常我见过的炸香蕉通常外表是软塌塌的。而这里的，外面是一层糖壳。
香蕉在极高的油温中迅速脱水，外层裹上的浆料瞬时凝固，结成一层如蝉翼般透明、却如冰层般清脆的硬壳。牙齿轻轻一磕，先是感受到“咔嚓”一声糖壳碎裂的脆响，紧接着，那受热后变得像奶油般顺滑、软糯的果肉便在舌尖化开。
在大士院街，我心中真正的好吃第一名是一家白糖糕店（老南昌白糖糕）。不起眼的小店前永远排着长长的队伍，白糖糕甚至限购。
不同于别处雪白蓬松的圆圈，大士院这家店的白糖糕，炸出来通体泛着一层极淡、极诱人的金黄色。糖粉渗入了酥脆的外壳里。趁热咬下去，“咔嚓”一声，外壳薄如蝉翼且酥脆，内里极尽绵软粘糯。吃之前我的心态是“我倒要看看有多好吃”，吃之后我的心态是“确实值得排这个队”。
南昌也甚少见到海底捞，反而是本地火锅品牌季季红占上风。江西朋友直言，在他出门玩纠结吃什么或者不知道吃什么的时候，就选择季季红。
而当辣意上头，口渴难耐时，必然得再来一瓶润田。这种产自江西本土的水，低调地出现在每一个便利店的货架上。
南昌，不仅仅是一个“英雄城”，也是一个属于皮蛋、水煮和白糖糕的，值得一去再去的城市。
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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000340s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=aa460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.000603s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.000278s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000254s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000479s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000198s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.000612s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 512209 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000602s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1778861804 WHERE `id` = 512209 [ RunTime:0.000557s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 64 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000227s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 512209 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000364s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 512209 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000380s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 512209 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.001378s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 512209 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.000770s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 512209 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.000857s ]
0.075871s